Introduction
Simulated process screen printing unlocks photo real color on garments that regular four-color process cannot match, especially on dark or mid tone fabrics. By stacking opaque plastisol inks in a planned sequence, you can recreate complex artwork without relying on halftones of cyan, magenta, yellow, and black alone. This guide walks you through every stage, from art prep to the final cure, using Monarch Color inks and an automatic press.
What makes simulated process different?
Traditional CMYK printing relies on translucent inks and the white of the shirt for highlight detail. That limits your palette to white or very light garments. Simulated process, by contrast, uses spot colors and an opaque underbase to build an image in layers. Think of it like painting with a reduced set of solid pigments that blend visually on the shirt.
When to choose simulated process
- Photographic or illustrated designs with more than six visible colors
- Dark garments where CMYK would look muddy
- Orders that demand color consistency across cotton, poly cotton, and polyester
Artwork Preparation
Great prints begin with art created at the right resolution. Aim for 300 PPI at actual print size. Flatten effects and convert gradients into tonal shapes so they separate cleanly. Keep your source file in RGB until separations are complete.
Color Separation Basics
In Photoshop, start with a solid black background layer. Use the Channel Mixer or custom curves to pull distinct hues into their own channels. Typical sets include:
- Underbase white
- Highlight white (selective)
- Golden yellow
- Scarlet red
- Royal blue
- Forest green
- Purple or brown if the art requires it
- Soft black for shadows
Limit the palette to eight or nine screens whenever possible. Fewer screens mean fewer press heads and faster setup.
Screen and Mesh Selection
- Underbase: 110–156 mesh for bold laydown
- Color screens: 156–230 mesh, tighter counts for detail colors
- Highlight white: 230 mesh to keep the layer thin and bright
Tension each screen to at least 25 N/cm. Well tensioned mesh snaps off the ink cleanly, giving you sharper dots and less gain.
Ink Choice
Monarch Color’s Stark & Yeti White LB is ideal for underbase and highlight passes thanks to its short body and high opacity. For colors, reach for the Vivid & Apocalypse mixing series. They stay creamy on the press and flash quickly, which reduces dwell time.
Press Setup
Register the underbase first and perform your tap test to confirm off contact of 1⁄16 in. After flashing, the ink should be touch dry yet pliable. Follow with darker colors and finish with highlights. A common order is white underbase, mid tones, dark shadows, highlight white.
Flash Curing and Ink Deposit Control
Over flashing can sink detail. Target 220 °F surface temperature for two to three seconds. Use a laser temperature gun at the platen, not just the flash unit.
Quality Checks
Pull a test print on pellon before the run. Use a jeweler’s loupe to verify edges and dot integrity. Check that highlight white adds pop without chalky buildup. Adjust squeegee pressure rather than speed if edges begin to feather.
Troubleshooting Quick Hits
Issue Likely cause Quick fix
Colors dull or muddy Underbase too thin or off register Add a second underbase stroke, re square rear clamps
Dots bridging on fine lines Mesh tension low Retension or reframe screen
Ink fibrillation after wash Curing temp too low Raise tunnel dryer 5 °F increments and retest
Finishing and Curing
Run garments through the dryer at 320 °F (or 280°F if low-temp) for 45–60 seconds dwell time. Monarch inks reach full cure at 280–320 °F depending on ink and garment type. Perform a stretch test: print should flex without cracking.
Final Thoughts
Simulated process screen printing rewards patience and precision. Once your shop masters separations, mesh choice, and ink laydown, you can offer customers vivid prints that rival direct to garment brightness while retaining classic plastisol durability. Keep notes on every job so the next complex design dials in even faster.
